Custom apparel and cut-and-sew: MOQ, tooling, lead time and landed cost

Confidence 4/5 Established practice

Apparel is the most familiar category to first-time importers and one of the easiest to get wrong, because the cost is not in the sewing — it is in the fabric, the pattern grading and the sampling rounds. A cut-and-sew factory will happily quote a low unit price against a fabric you have not chosen yet, and the quote will not survive contact with the actual cloth.

Quick answers

Minimum order quantityRoughly 100–300 pieces per style per colourway for cut-and-sew, because pattern grading, cutting and line set-up are per-style costs. Stock blanks with printed branding start far lower, at 50 and sometimes 1.
Lead timeSampling and fit approval: 10–20 days. Production: 20–40 days. Add transit.
ToolingNo metal tool. Pattern making and grading is the equivalent cost, typically USD 100–400 per style, plus sample costs of USD 30–150 per sample round.
Unit costRoughly USD 3–12 per T-shirt at 500–2,000 units in a mid-weight combed cotton, fully printed. Fabric choice moves this more than labour does.
HS classificationChapter 61 for knitted apparel, chapter 62 for woven. The heading depends on the garment type and the 4-digit subheading on the fibre content, and the duty rate varies sharply between them — a cotton T-shirt and a synthetic T-shirt are different lines.
CertificationTextile labelling requirements differ by market: fibre content, country of origin and care instructions are mandatory in the US, EU and UK. OEKO-TEX or GOTS matter if you claim them, and claiming without certification is a liability.
DutyApparel tariffs are high and fibre-specific, commonly in the 12% US range for cotton knits and higher for some synthetics. This is the category where the HS subheading most changes the landed cost, and it needs to be verified rather than estimated.

Common mistakes

  • Quoting before the fabric is chosen. Fabric is typically the majority of the cost.
  • Skipping a fit sample and going straight to production.
  • Not specifying shrinkage or colourfastness standards, then discovering both after the first wash.
  • Assuming the fabric weight matches the sample; GSM varies between mills at the same nominal weight.
  • Ignoring the destination labelling rules until after the goods are printed.

Sources

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